KNOXVILLE TO ASHEVILLE

We essentially stayed here to say we went to Tennessee, and did nothing more than find an covered outdoor pool (with directions that included the duck pond) in a YMCA filled with the most overtly religious message I’d ever seen in a Y, which is after all a religiously-based institution. It was a great swim, and afterwards I decided to take some photos of from the parking lot of the pool only to have some alarmed woman run out and wonder what I was doing because after all, I could have been taking photos of the kids and god knows any strange male taking photos is most definitely suspect. I had to explain I swim all over the country and internationally as well, which went right over her head. She then asked it I was a member after I’d just spent almost two hours using the facility. I hate being mistaken for a potential child molester, it really pisses me off.

We left the fear and Jesus of Knoxville for a short drive to Asheville and lo, we were very pleased indeed.

Essentially everything we hoped Athens would be, Asheville sits nestled in the hills and is an enclave of liberal living that even with a just a wee bit too much of the New Age, encompasses enough of a spectrum that just about anything goes; from extreme wealth and golfing hell, to great food, great coffee and a choice location for outdoor sports. In other words we both agreed we could live here in about five minutes after arriving.

Hungry as usual, we drove around town getting lost, veering from art studio locations in old factory buildings near the French Broad River, up into the hills and into the heart of downtown, where what else, a huge drum circle converged in the downtown park whilst foodies lined up on sidewalks all around. After finding a crash pad we headed downtown where the streets were absolutely filled with the nighttime crowd. We asked some locals what the story was and were informed a few things: it’s always jamming on the weekends, the weather is mild all year, the town only has 70,000 residents, lots of bluegrass. Lots of Deadheads too, but on that note we passed saw at least half a dozen clubs with enough good music that indicated Asheville was a serious touring stop. Smashing Pumpkins was in town recently recording their new album and had played a few small shows.

After dinner we walked around, impressed that the quality of the boutiques and services offered. Coming from Manhattan it was plenty to live on. Overall great vibe.